The SS2014 collection marries research in time-honoured handcraft techniques (crochet, hand-knitting and drawn thread work) to menswear with a edgy and contemporary street attitude.
The union of technology and traditional crafts is central in my design methodology apt to produce a desirable contemporary menswear with a functional and wearable appeal.
For the Spring-Summer 2014 season I looked at ancient techniques used in religious garment like drawn thread work and crochet mixed and built on the basis of aluminium chains.
The panelling of tops and jacket is build on a mix of hand knitting, crochet net and crocheted metal chains, developing an new fabric composed by all these crafts worked together.
In the past, hours of handmade work by laborious women created beautiful artefacts starting from relatively poor materials (heavy linen, cotton threads or a hook and spun cotton).
The inner value of these object were never connected with the materials but with the transformation operated by women. The person who crochet or embroider do transform materials to produce sense as a whole ranges of meanings. Differently from tailoring, that uses to work with already refined material like fabrics, feminine crafts work on relatively raw materials to create even very complex artefacts. This aspect is charged of highly symbolic and cultural connotative meanings: long time, patience, dedication and craftsmanship were infused in the work becoming its inner value.
On the other hand, my work has a relevant ethical implication to the sharing of an otherwise disappearing knowledge.
I’m working closely with artisans and craft practitioners in their local Italian context, contributing to preserve their art, learning from them via my direct engagement with the crafts and contributing to promote their practices with the presence of my collections in international magazines (Vogue Italia, Bullet Magazine, Volt, Maxim etc.).
The silhouette of the collection is svelte and precise in the tailoring, more relaxed and with important volumes in the tops.
Some outfits are also build singularly on the loose/tight opposition between the top and the skinny bottom of their silhouette.
THE COLOUR PALETTE
The palette is based on the austerity of the colour black matched with mute colours like greys and white. Touches of rich red create contrasting highlights.
Use of Italian fabrics as: virgin wools and light stretch wools for tailoring.
The finest leather nappa for biker jackets, waistcoats and detailing.
Technical fabrics for woven tops.
Cotton twill for trench coats and blousons.
Cotton poplin for shirting.